從 Dirndl 的當代詮釋 看傳統與文化
Exploring Tradition and Culture Through the Lens of Dirndl
上一回的文章，我們談論了慕尼黑啤酒節。現在，讓我們把視線轉向巴伐利亞地區的時尚焦點 — Dirndl 連身裙。與啤酒節一樣，Dirndl 也是巴伐利亞文化的一部分，本篇文章我將討論它的歷史和其當代詮釋。
源自農場的工作制服
如今的節慶服裝，它們最早是 19 世紀巴伐利亞和奧地利農場女傭的工作制服。當時，製作圍裙的面料並不像今天這麼華麗，而是使用床單製成。直到 1930 年代，城市貴族在山區度假時看到女傭穿著這種工作服，對其十分喜愛。因此，上流社會開始把 Dirndl 設計成高級訂製服，也出現了各種精緻的款式和面料，形成一種新的時尚和文化象徵。
說到這裡，你發現有趣的事情了嗎？當人們對於遊客穿上皮褲和連身裙，試圖仿效當地人的舉動表示不滿時。從歷史的角度來看，20 世紀初，城市貴族穿上這些服飾參加節慶和聚會時，就已經開始了對傳統和文化的重新詮釋。近年來，大量的啤酒消費者和節慶愛好者在每年的九月從世界各地趕往慕尼黑，穿著 Lederhosen 和 Dirndl 參加啤酒節的現象，更是跳脫民族主義，為的是慶典和啤酒！至此，Dirndl 的文化意義又再次轉變。那麼，「傳統」和「文化」究竟指的是什麼呢？
「傳統」和「文化」
傳統是從當下來定義的，並會根據人類意識形態的需求而重新詮釋。傳統的創造、挪用和重建並非現代性的產物，它或許更接近於打造人類文化所必須的條件。
（韓德勒與林奈金，1984）
實際上，每年在啤酒節開始之前，都會舉行一年一度的 Dirndl 高峰會，由多位設計師提供當年度的 Dirndl 趨勢。今年，出現嘗試打破刻板印象 Dirndl 設計師 Cidalia Amante-Policarpo。她認為「女性不再局限於廚房，所以圍裙已經失去實用功能，僅僅只是裝飾品。」她出生於巴伐利亞，但家族來自葡萄牙，她的設計帶著跨文化背景，並強調「設計師的使命是推動時尚，並在傳統基礎上進行創新。」
以這款名為 波多 - 午夜藍連身裙 為例，花色靈感來自歷史悠久的波多舊城區花街（Rua das Flores）。設計上，垂在腰間的褶邊取代了傳統圍裙，為裙子提供更多自由擺動所需的空間。
我們開始看到不同的設計出現。或許，當地人在意的並非是被打破的傳統，而是「文化挪用」(cultural appropriation）的可能性。
何謂文化挪用（cultural appropriation）
「文化挪用」指的是較強勢的個體或文化群體對於相對弱勢的個體或文化群體，在不理解、誤解、惡意或有害的詮釋弱勢文化；或取笑、歧視、不尊重弱勢文化；抑或是直接採用、侵佔、剝削、抄襲或複製（宣稱擁有）弱勢文化的現象。
（維基百科）
基於以上定義，我們可以發現錯誤穿戴 Dirndl 更多的是不了解其中的文化脈絡，而非文化挪用。以文化挪用之名，欲加外地人之罪，僅會造成文化之間更多的隔閡和誤解，而非真正對巴伐利亞文化起到保護之效用。我們必須意識到文化傳統更多是在承認差異的情況下建構，而非避免和其他文化接觸而被保留。
文化理解與尊重
儘管我們前面說到 Dirndl 的文化意義已開始產生轉變，但比起尋找最低價、最低胸的 Dirndl ，理解衣服背後的文化脈絡是購買服飾前更重要的課題。許多賣 Dirndl 的服飾店老闆們紛紛表示，近年來越來約多客人想要找「性感一點」的 Dirndl，他們希望連身裙更短、上衣更合身，但這不是戲服、情趣服飾，更不應該是社群媒體上的釣餌。
對不同文化的理解和尊重是重要的，特別是當我們參與或體驗其他文化時。當你到異地，請記得把握以下旅行（TRAVEL）準則：
對話和聆聽（Talk）
對話是增進理解的最佳途徑，與該文化的人交談，聆聽他們的故事和觀點。
尊重文化差異（Respect）
不帶著自己的文化試圖評斷其他文化，接受並尊重其他文化的差異。這包括宗教、價值觀、習慣、飲食等各個層面。
接受不完美（Accept）
理解不同文化需要時間，並且可能犯錯。面對外國人理解我們的文化也是同樣，請以更寬廣的心對待彼此學習文化上的錯誤，重要的是願意學習和持續改進。
成為倡導者（Voice）
支持文化多樣性和包容，讓自己的聲音成為倡導者。
參與文化活動（Engage）
參加該文化的節日、儀式等活動，深入體驗。
學習歷史背景（Learn）
了解文化背後的歷史、傳統和價值觀是理解該文化的重要一步。閱讀書籍、查詢資料、觀看影片都是獲取資訊的途徑之一。
我很喜歡不同地方的當地節慶，雖然我必須承認，很多時候我對世界和文化的了解並不夠全面。但透過參與、觀察、對照，以尊重和理解的心，我熱情參與，讓每一次的旅行，變成一種文化實踐。
更多資訊，請參考：
《觀光人類學：旅行對在地文化的深遠影響》。李宗義、許雅淑譯。臺北：游擊文化。Dirndl or no? How 'Barbie' impacts Germany's Oktoberfest
Policarpo Trachten
In the previous article, we discussed the world famous Munich Beer Festival, Oktoberfest. Now, let's shift our focus to the fashion highlight of the Bavarian region - the Dirndl dress. Just like the festival, Dirndl is also a significant part of Bavarian culture. In this article, we will delve into its history and contemporary interpretations.
Originating from Farm Work Uniforms
Today's festival dress were originally the work uniforms of farm maids in 19th-century Bavaria and Austria. Back then, the fabric used to make aprons was far from as glamorous as it is today; it was made from bed linens. It wasn't until the 1930s, the urban nobility went to the suburbans observing these maids wearing these work outfits and developed a strong fondness for them. As a result, the upper echelons of society began designing Dirndls as high-end custom-made garments, leading to the emergence of various exquisite styles and fabrics, creating a new fashion and cultural symbol.
Speaking of which, have you noticed something intriguing? When people see tourists donning lederhosen and dirndls, attempting to emulate the locals, it often raises eyebrows. From a historical perspective, as early as the early 20th century, urban nobility wearing these attires to attend festivals and gatherings marked the beginning of a reinterpretation of tradition and culture. In recent years, a significant number of beer enthusiasts and festival-goers from around the world have flocked to Munich every September, wearing lederhosen and dirndls to participate in the beer festival. This phenomenon transcends nationalism; they're here for the festivities and beer! Thus, the cultural significance of Dirndl has once again undergone a transformation. So, what do "tradition" and "culture" really mean?
Tradition and Culture
"Tradition is defined from the present and is subject to reinterpretation based on human ideological needs. The creation, appropriation, and reconstruction of tradition are not products of modernity; perhaps they are closer to the essential requirements for building human culture."
(Handler and Linnekin, 1984)
In fact, every year before the kick-off of the Oktoberfest, there is a Dirndl Summit where multiple designers present the trends for Dirndls for that year. This year, designer Cidalia Amante-Policarpo emerged as a trailblazer in breaking the traditional mold. She believes that "women are no longer confined to the kitchen, so aprons have lost their practicality and are now primarily decorative." Born in Bavaria but with family roots in Portugal, her designs carry a cross-cultural influence, emphasizing that "a designer's mission is to drive fashion forward while building upon traditional foundations."
Take her work, the "Porto - Midnight Blue" dirndl, for example. Its floral patterns draw inspiration from the historic flower-lined streets of Porto's old town, Rua das Flores. In terms of design, the pleats hanging at the waist replace the traditional apron, providing the dress with the freedom of movement it needs.
We are starting to see different designs emerge. Perhaps what locals are concerned about is not the breaking of tradition but the possibility of "cultural appropriation."
What is Cultural Appropriation?
Cultural appropriation refers to the phenomenon where more dominant individuals or cultural groups adopt elements from minority individuals or cultural groups without proper understanding, often resulting in misunderstanding, misrepresentation, or harm to the minority. It can also involve making fun of, discriminating against, or disrespecting the minority, or directly using, occupying, exploiting, copying, or claiming ownership of elements from the minority.
(Wikipedia)
Based on the definition provided, we can observe that incorrect wearing of Dirndl is more about a lack of understanding of its cultural context rather than cultural appropriation. Using the term "cultural appropriation" in such cases would only lead to more division and misunderstanding between cultures, rather than genuinely protecting Bavarian culture. We must recognize that cultural traditions are often built upon acknowledging differences, rather than preserving them by avoiding contact with other cultures.
Understanding and Respecting the Culture
While we've discussed how the cultural significance of Dirndl has evolved, it's essential to emphasize that understanding the cultural context behind clothing should be a more critical consideration before purchasing. Many shop owners selling Dirndls have noticed a growing trend in customers seeking "sexier" Dirndls in recent years, with shorter dresses and tighter bodices. However, it's crucial to remember that Dirndls are not costumes or lingerie, and they shouldn't serve as clickbait for social media.
Understanding and respecting different cultures are vital, especially when we engage with or experience them. When you travel to a foreign place, please keep in mind the following TRAVEL guidelines:
Certainly, here's the translation of the TRAVEL guidelines into English:
Talk and Listen (Talk)
Engaging in conversation is the best way to enhance understanding. Speak with people from the culture and listen to their stories and perspectives.Respect Cultural Differences (Respect)
Don't judge other people's cultures based on your own. Accept and respect differences in other cultures, including aspects like religion, values, customs, and dietary practices.
Accept Imperfection (Accept)
Learning different cultures takes time and may involve making mistakes. Be open to learning and continuous improvement.
Be an Advocate (Voice)
Support cultural diversity and inclusivity. Let your voice be an advocate for these values.
Engage in Cultural Activities (Engage)
Participate in cultural activities, festivals, and ceremonies to gain a deeper experience of the culture.
Learn the Historical Background (Learn)
Understanding the history, traditions, and values that shape a culture is a crucial step in understanding that culture. Reading books, researching, and watching documentaries are ways to acquire this knowledge.
By following these TRAVEL principles, you can foster greater understanding and respect for different cultures, both when you're the traveler and when others are exploring your own culture.
I thoroughly enjoy local festivals, although I must admit that my understanding of the world and its cultures isn't always comprehensive. Nevertheless, with a heart full of respect and understanding, through involvement, observation, and comparison, I enthusiastically participate, making every trip a form of cultural engagement .
For more information,
<Native Tours: The Anthropology of Travel and Tourism> Erve Chambers
Dirndl or no? How 'Barbie' impacts Germany's Oktoberfest
Policarpo Trachten